by Jai Newman

Before laser and IPL devices entered the market, electrolysis was the only form of permanent or long-term hair removal available. Electrolysis is still performed today, but it is painful and invasive to the skin, allowing for a chance of infection. Unfortunately, this painstaking process is performed one hair follicle at a time. During the electrolysis procedure, a fine needle is inserted into the hair follicle, delivering a galvanic current to destruct the follicle stem cells. Regular maintenance procedures are often required for years after the initial treatment.

With laser and pulsed light technology, hundreds of hair follicles are treated at a time and vary upon the spot size (the size of the tip of the device delivering energy). These non-invasive hair removal procedures only take minutes to perform instead of the hours required with electrolysis.

What is Melanin?

The most important consideration prior to hair removal a procedure is the patient’s skin type and hair color. Laser hair removal is based on selective photothermolysis (using light and heat for destruction of a hair follicle) with melanin being the target chromophore (chemical grouping that produces color). The difference between the absorption of laser or light energy by melanin in the hair follicle and melanin in the epidermis determines the amount of energy that can be safely used without harming the skin.

Light-skinned patients with dark hair are proven to be the ideal patients for hair removal On the contrary, a patient with very dark skin and white/grey hair, would have little if any results. Since melanin in the hair shaft and follicle are the target source for laser and IPL hair removal procedures, it is important for patients during their initial consultation not to tweeze, wax or use any depilatory device prior to the procedure. The patient can, however, shave the area to be treated (which preserves the chromophore in the follicle), or can use hair removal creams. Hair which is above the skin surface can burn during a laser or light treatment.

Treatment Day

Most laser hair removal devices technically operate the same way when performing a treatment. The parameters (joules, milliseconds, pulse, etc.) on the device should be set according to the patient’s skin analysis and history. Patients should not wear dark clothing near the area to be treated as the pigment in the clothing can be absorbed by the laser resulting in a burn. The patient should be advised to refrain from using any lotions, body washes, cosmetics, or skin medications the day of treatment. A topical anesthetic may be applied prior to the procedure, but if any residue of the anesthetic remains, it should be wiped clean from the skin. A patch test should be performed on the targeted treatment area. Several treatments are required at monthly intervals for the best outcome and yearly maintenance procedure is highly recommended.

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